August

 Summer yields into Autumn

There is a maturity to August that other months of the year don't quite manage. It's the early 50s of life. Calm and considered in its change. Shifting consequences are accepted rather than baulked from.

August is steady, even in its uncertainty.

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August is still well and truly in the grips of Summer. Warm air, bright mornings, light evenings and green is still the dominant force. It is all too easy to forget that only four months remain of the year.

Yet there are signs that the daylight is shrinking and Autumn is not too far away.

Berries begin to fade as the sight of branches bowing to the weight of apples, pears and plums catch the eye. Leaves begin to rust and flowers give way to seed. It is as if abundance has taken its toll and the season is running out of steam.

A few crops bridge the gap between seasons throughout August, tricking us into believing that Summer is sticking around for a while yet. Blackberries fill the air with their pungent temptation. Courgette plants refuse to give up, sweetcorn reminds us of how sweet the sun truly makes freshly picked crops, while tomatoes show a final display of colour.

Yet the sense of fatigue is all around. Summer is an explosive season, packed full of life, and this constant barrage of production is not sustainable. Something has to give and the time for rest is approaching.

Sloe berries begin to show their colour, as do guelder rose and rowan, keeping the hedgerow alive and vibrant. Elderberries hang, appearing far heavier than their size would let on, and chestnuts start to show between the leaves.

Summer squash masquerade as Autumn crops as they begin the harvest charge in August. Pattypan and a whole host of fantastically shaped members of the courgette tribe have spent a long summer soaking up the vibes before exploding into the last glut of the season.

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This is not the contrast of March — turbulent, volatile and at times violent in its differences. August is calmer, quieter and forgiving in its change.

Uncertainty is celebrated during August. The unpredictability of early summer rains and mid-summer temperatures shifts and moulds the harvest of late summer in directions that rarely reveal themselves until the last possible moment.

Fresh onions can suddenly have a spectacular year, filling the August pantry with vibrant floral acids, tamed by intense sugars. Beans can decide that this is their time — almost like they hold their nose and blow, shooting pods out with remarkable regularity. While other crops decide enough is enough and give up for the season.

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Spring lamb — true outdoor reared spring lamb — is finally reaching the kitchen, shuffling priorities on the grill away from sausages and burgers. It is a reminder that game season is not far. Meat takes on new meaning, heralding a slower pace of life and a calmer demeanour in the kitchen.

Appetites shift away from picky bits, salads and the light fresh bites that June and July offer up in abundance. Food of substance shows its face — not the comfort foods of Autumn, but meals to get your teeth round.

Lamb really does set the tone for August. It demands a little more time and attention on the grill compared to the flair and instant gratification of early Summer dining, working the cook to reap any rewards.

This spreads throughout August plates confidently, carrying on as if the Summer will never fade, while quietly welcoming Autumn's first breath — just out of sight.

Heritage | Environment | Craft

Curated with Terroir